Listicle: 10 sari moments in cinema that stopped India in its tracks

What else but pure, spotless white for a woman who was duped and sold into prostitution and ended up controlling her own brothel? Gangubai favours cotton in the 2022 film, wearing it Gujarati style. She accessorises with a big red bindi and a red flower in her hair. The look was so popular, an Indian brand launched a Gangubai Kathiawadi summer collection. Because Madams are the ultimate in power dressing?

Aishwarya Rai in Devdas

The 2002 film is not short on glitz. Every available surface (floors, pillars, furniture) is embellished. So, Paro’s white-and-red Bengali weave, draped in the traditional style, with gold jewellery and a big red bindi stands out. In a scene where she’s realised that the dying man at her doorstep is Devdas, the simplicity works. Nothing detracts from the tragedy.

Anushka Sharma in Ae Dil Hai Mushkil

All the 1990s Bollywood feels in this 2016 film. Alizeh wraps herself in bright chiffons and cavorts on chilly mountaintops. Costume designer Manish Malhotra gave the look only the barest of updates: The blouses are skimpier, the silhouette more hourglass, more contemporary. The vibe is the same. Even Anuskha seems lost in the fantasy.

Anushka Shetty in Bahubali 2

Devasena is royal, and fierce. That forceful gait is shown off in rich, gleaming Banarasi and Paithani silks, draped dhoti style, with puffed or three-quarter blouse sleeves, often with a metallic belt. Costume designer Prashanti Tipirneni created 12-yard saris especially for the film. That’s twice as long as a regular sari. How does such stiff fabric move so seamlessly as she wields the sword and the bow and arrow?

Deepika Padukone in Yeh Jawaani Hai Deewani

Until the 2013 film, only fashion designers knew what a cocktail sari was. It helps that Padukone, playing love interest Naina, is statuesque. Flowing fabrics such as georgette fall softly at all the right points on the body. The sequinned blouses almost seem bikini tops. India fell for Naina’s nerd-to-hot transformation. For months, at wedding, parties and online wishlists, this style was at the top.

Kareena Kapoor Khan in Ra. One

This is an actor who made cheap, kitschy saris look good in Chameli (2003). For the 2011 film, Sonia’s red number, from Chammak Challo, was a relief from the CGI, video game visuals that dominated the film. Embellished border, very low waist and pleats that seem to stay on through willpower. It’s the sari that the actor’s wax exhibit at London’s Madame Tussauds also wears.

Katrina Kaif in Agneepath

Everyone’s Koli fantasy comes alive with the Chikni Chameli in this 2012 film. The kashti drape is short and figure hugging. There’s no pallu covering the knotted blouse. Kaif’s washboard abs give off serious gym goals. Manish Malhotra, who designed her look, chose a high-contrast geometric prints, bright yellows and light fabrics – all the better to move in.

Mrunal Thakur in Sita Ramam

The 2022 love story is set against the backdrop of war. The palette sets the mood. Costume designer Sheetal Sharma smartly harks back to the charm of the 1950s and ’60s, putting Sita Mahalakshmi in subtle floral design organza saris and puff sleeve blouses. She’s a simple, noble character, in pretty, delicate saris. No wonder viewers were smitten.

Priyanka Chopra in Dostana

Dresses and gowns dominated in the 2008 film. But Neha’s slinky silver-champagne metallic sari and bikini blouse (and the wind machine following her practically everywhere through Desi Girl) is what everyone remembers all these years later. The jewellery is minimal, it’s a lightly sequinned halter blouse – nothing detracts from the gleaming ensemble. India shimmied in similar styles well into the 2010s.

Shraddha Kapoor in Aashiqui 2

Not everyone can rock a pale turquoise. Kapoor, playing Aarohi in the 2013 film, pulls it off with a gold sleeveless blouse, hair worn wavy and loose, a wet look and little else for Tum Hi Ho. She knew the look has power. She wore it for the trailer launch of the film too. Women of all ages are still trying to copy the ensemble to look as young and fresh as she did.

Sushmita Sen in Main Hoon Na

Oh, Miss Chandni Chopra! She set unattainable standards for school teachers ever since she wore that lightweight chiffon sari and sleeveless blouse in 2004. The look defines the age – the body was fit, but not muscled. The shoes were flats, not heels. The sari was translucent, but school-appropriate. Elegant but sexy. So many goals!

Trisha Krishnan in Ponniyin Selvan

Chola princess Kundavai is no pushover. And her Thanjavur and Kanchipuram silk saris in the 2022 film reflect that strength and courage. The drape looks complicated, but at the shoulder, the hip and the waist, there is not a pleat out of place. Costume designer Eka Lakhani used old drawings from the weekly magazine Kalki for reference. The elaborate hairdo, then, is only part of the plan, not a distraction from it.

From HT Brunch, July 1, 2023

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